Sunshine returns. During my morning workout I could see a little window of blue in the gray. And while I sweated it out, the blue spread and widened until everything shimmered in the sun.

A nice reward for me!

Once I finished and cleaned up, I headed out to join Laura for a tour of the kitchen gardens. Met up with most of the gang—Kat, Griffin, JR and Kayla going off to the pool. Jason, Colt and Savanna going off to kayak.

Logan had overindulged the night before. Here’s a helpful hint: Never try to out drink an Irishman, especially on his home turf.

You’re welcome.

Laura and I met up for a nice walk over to the kitchen gardens for a tour. What an amazing, beautiful and efficient space. Alex, the head gardener—handsome, French and incredibly knowledgeable about every inch, every plant–explained what they plant, why, how, when they harvest, and how they make use of all that space.

And the chefs find creative ways to use as many parts of the plant as possible in their creations. Only one reason the food here is just amazing.

All kinds of veg planted at different times, with edible flowers, flowers that lure the insects away from the veg. They’re expanding in hopes of producing enough for the castle and lodge to source all their fresh produce from their own gardens. And that would mean, for instance, hundreds of heads of various lettuce alone.

The greenhouse I saw them building on a previous walk is part of the expansion.

They’ve grafted from an apple tree the Guinness family planted over a hundred years ago. And there are lots of berries. Chefs use the fruit, of course, and also make jams, chutneys—full use. It’s fascinating to see strawberries growing on raised stands of dirt and straw—to keep the fruit from rotting on the ground with so much rain.

There are bee hives for honey, and a greenhouse—Alex called in a tunnel—with gorgeous pots of basil, more herbs, seedlings. The big surprise here? Elephant garlic. HUGE bulbs. An experiment, we’re told. In a couple of weeks, they’ll be ripe enough for the chefs to judge if they like the flavor.

One chef is there, with his clipboard, so Alex cuts a bulb, breaks off a clove. The chef deems it mild—but it’s not ripe enough as yet. We all get a sniff. It’s lovely!

We also get a taste of peas straight from the pod.

It’s an enormous undertaking, so well thought out. And the tour a real education.*

We walk back, and the day’s too pretty to go inside. So it’s a little lunch outside at The Cottage. Kayla joins us for some basking in the day time with food. It’s just so nice to sit out, drink a little wine, eat a little soup.

The others are eating at Stanley’s—they’re making the famed chicken fillet rolls for them. And they’re going to add them—and Savanna’s cherry Coke—to the menu.

Later Laura’s meeting the Little Brown team for dinner in town. It happens we’re going to a pub right across the street. Some of us walk, some of us drive, to The Crow’s Nest. It’s lively, and our server is delightful. Jason’s deciding between an orange Fanta and a Club Orange. She tells him, definitely, Club Orange is superior.

He goes for it, and so does Kat.

We hear kayak adventures. Jason and Colt were in a double at first, and Savanna in a single. After awhile Colt and Savanna switch. I see from the photos they’re all trapped out in waterproof jackets, and I think pants as well.

Ours are some of a pub full of voices.

Laura brings Gina, Laura and Clara in to say hello. It’s reallly good to see them—and they brought me a gift. A warm, soft, beautiful throw I can easily imagine snuggling under when it’s time to read by the fire again. And when I do, I’ll think of them.

Today’s the tea at the Lodge event, and I’m looking forward to seeing everyone who can attend. My voice was mostly back yesterday, all day, so I’m counting on the same today. I’ve had enough ginger tea with honey to last me a lifetime!

Time to get moving, make myself presentable. I’ll meet up with Laura, Gina, Clara, Laura and Ana Huang—the talented author who’ll interview me—about an hour before the event.

Nora

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And Savanna took the time to look up.

*To learn more about Alex and Ashford’s Kitchen Garden project, click this link.  -Laura

Sunshine turns into wild winds and driving rain. Little white caps ride the lake, and that wind streams through the window I have open a few inches. Time to dress in those layers. Laura comes over so we meet the rest of the gang in the castle lobby. We’re walking over to The Cottage for our 4th of July celebration.

Kayla scolds me for not tying my scarf or zipping my jacket. Then does both for me. And into the wild wet we go. The wind blows the rain into misty horizontal waves I’d likely find more fascinating from indoors, and whips against rain jackets, hoods, umbrellas. It whipped Colt’s umbrella and turned it inside out.  He’s also the lone among us wearing shorts.

I think some of the reason is not getting his pants wet.

You could say our walk was brisk, then into the warm and dry of The Cottage. The fire’s crackling, a two-man band is playing. This barbecue will obviously be indoors.

We have a big table in a side room, all to ourselves. Snug and warm. There’s an American flag on the table, burgers on the menu. As well as milkshakes and doughnuts. Despite it, I go for the potato-leek soup and have a Bellini along with my hot water, lemon and honey.

Conversation runs up and down the table. As always the food, and the service, are lovely. Our musicians are excellent. We hear Dolly Parton, Bob Dylan, The Eagles, Glen Campbell And ha! David Bowie. I make sure Colt knows it’s David Bowie as earlier in the week, when we were discussing music he asked: Who’s David Bowie?

I died.

It’s a fun, entertaining lunch—and many go for the doughnuts. When Kat explains to Griffin they’re doughnuts holes (very big ones!) he’s fascinated. He eats two, maybe three before we head back out through the wind and rain. Nearly blown over, Laura and I lock arms. We’re walking against the wind now, and it blows my hood off. I blame Kayla for not tying it!

Back in the castle, Catherine hunts up thicker rain jackets for Jason, Logan and Savanna. They’re booked for a trail ride, and storm or not, they’re going for it.

Laura and I sit in my parlor for awhile, have another drink, discuss the basic outline for the event on Sunday. Then, with the wind and rain, it’s a quiet afternoon for all but those mounted on horses.

I get a text they’re going to play Ashford Castle Monopoly. I’ll leave them to that.

We meet up for dinner at The Dungeon at six-thirty. Jason reports rain jackets didn’t stop that wild rain. They all got wet but seemed to have a good time at it, riding through the woods, then out in the open in front of the castle. And now we’re a very jolly group, eating well at our long family table with the promise of fireworks at about nine-thirty.

We end the meal with dessert as desserts here are not to be resisted. I go for the sundae again because, man they’re amazing. Shane, who’s looking out for us, tells me I’ve chosen the best dessert on the menu. I absolutely agree.

We all say goodnight. Most aren’t sure they’ll make it until the fireworks. I’m not sure I will myself. But I’m happy to see the rain and wind have finally given it up for the day.

Get into pjs, discover Butch Cassidy And The Sundance Kid’s on TV. I don’t turn down Newman and Redford any more than I do a hot fudge sundae.

At nine-thirty, I go to my triple window where the half moon’s sailing, bright one moment, a hazy glow behind clouds the next. There’s still blue in the sky, and people starting to gather lake side for the fireworks.

They start a few minutes later to cheers. Such a pretty display, all the light and color against a sky that hasn’t yet gone to full dark. Showers of stars, swirling gold lights, exploding fountains, the bang and the boom.

It’s fun to watch and think across the Atlantic, the skies will light up with color in a few hours.

And they end to cheers and applause.

Cloudy today, the sort that turn the light to the soft gleam of a pearl. I think I may join Laura for the kitchen garden tour this afternoon. And we may hit Stanley’s where they’re bringing us chicken fillet rolls—I’m sure I don’t have the name right, but it’s a hand-held, often sold at petrol stations. Many of the staff, when asked, have their favorite spot to buy one.

Some of the group are going kayaking.

I’ll stay on land, thanks. Maybe get in a walk along the way today.

Nora

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Another spectacular day. Another reason to take a late morning walk, choose a new path and wander to the music of birdsong and light breezes. I see more downed trees—the winter storm had to be horrendous. But still the woods are green and thick, and flowers find their way to blooming. Another path between castle and lough and flowers in profusion with colors bright and bold or soft and dreamy.

There’s nothing like a walk in the woods, or a stroll through a garden for soothing or lifting the spirit.

In to meet the gang for lunch. Kat and Savanna went off early to visit a house in another wood where the woman sells wool. Kat will spin it. And they’re back with a stop for Diet Cokes so my brain continues to function.

Just soup for me as Jason and Colt brought me bacon after workout, before walk. And witnessed my voice also functioning—more or less. In and out through the day, but mostly in. Progress.

We’ll see if that holds.

Another spoonful of honey. Shudder.

All but Kayla, Laura and I are off on the boat ride to the island in the lough where once stood a monastery. I dispense Dramamine to Logan and Savanna.

Laura, Kayla and I take a walk to Cong. A different route as workers are clearing downed trees. And a lovely one, tree-lined and wild flowered, shady and sweet.  I’m aiming for the little shop where I shopped, and well, on my previous trip to Ireland. It was closed Sunday, and sadly, closed again when we got there.

Another shopkeeper thinks the proprietor may be at lunch. So we walk on. Everyone scores something. I have another Christmas gift in my bag, and a cute hooded sweatshirt for Griffin. We round back toward my initial goal, but Kayla, scouting ahead, finds it still closed.

I may give it one more shot, but for now, the walk back. And since the sun’s shining, the air wonderfully warm, we stop at The Cottage for a drink.

Mmm. Bellini for me. Our server’s originally from Sweden, so since Laura’s traveled there, they can chat about it. It’s nice to linger in the sunshine over a drink with girls.

Then we all head to our rooms for a little quiet time.

Tonight, when the adventurers return, we’re dining at Stanley’s while Laura indulges in her Fancy Dinner.*

And return they do, with loads of pictures and tales. With that hour and a half round-trip boat ride, that’s the only way I’ll see the island. Maybe, if and when Scotty can beam me up, I’ll visit in person.

But it’s Stanley’s time.

This is a delightful place designed as sort of an American diner from the 50s where nine—and only nine—can sit at the counter. And they have hot dogs! Colt and I are right there for them. And Mac and Cheese—Kayla and Griffin are right there for that.

It’s an open kitchen so we can watch the chef work. He’s really amazing, somehow creating nine orders all at once, and with precision as well as a confident ease. Our server is so sweet, and when the conversation turns to Savanna’s love of cherry Cokes, and Jason wonders how they’re made, she joins in.

Jason’s read it’s grenadine, but that’s made from pomegranate. (News to me!) This becomes a mystery to be solved, and our server’s originally goes off to shortly return with a bottle of cherry syrup. An experiment, she says, and pours a bit—Savanna says when—into a glass, adds Coke and ice.

Gets a happy thumb’s up from Savanna.

I’m about to take my second daily dose of honey, when the server looks distressed for me. Better in hot water and lemon. Yes, please! Much easier to swallow.

Several get the chicken wrap and when they’re plated—beautifully—served and sampled, Logan states it’s the best chicken wrap he’s ever had. I can report Stanley’s makes a damn good hot dog.

And how about dessert? I’m not turning down the sundae so Jason and I split one. And we watch the chef prepare Kayla’s choice of a warm chocolate chip cookie with ice cream, artistically topped with thin bits of edible gold.

I mean seriously!

No one leaves Stanley’s hungry.

Catherine comes down to tell us there’s a Fourth of July barbecue at The Cottage. I’m fascinated to attend an Irish barbecue. The day also calls for rain, and somehow I think that’ll just add to it.

Time to get moving.

Nora

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*My dinner was amazing. From start to finish. Will describe in my own spot and share the link when it’s up. -Laura

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We have another absolutely gorgeous day. A little soft weather late morning until just after noon. It didn’t discourage my walk in the woods. It’s so special, wandering around different paths, huge trees shielding from both the beaming sun and the light drizzle so you’re walking in a quiet, magical world serenaded by birdsong.

A lot of downed trees, HUGE ones. Most fell in a big storm last January. One across my path makes a kind of gate, and I go through, round my way back where the gang’s having lunch at noon.

And while we sit, the rain gets serious for a few minutes, while the sun continues to shine. Then it’s done, and the sun wins.

Text and email with Laura who, brave soul, is renting a car at Knock Airport and driving herself to Ashford after visiting her Irish cousins. Meanwhile all but Logan and Savanna are walking down to the falconry school for a hawk walk. I hook up with Kat and Griffin, so we defeat zombies and other baddies on the way.

Keeping Ireland safe.

I ask what the Irish Tooth Fairy traded him for his tooth. Five Euros!!

On arrival, we split into two groups. Jason, Kat and Griffin with Tommy, Kayla, Colt, JR and me with Naimh (Neve) which happens to be the name of the female lead in my current wip. A fun coincidence for me.

She’s knowledgeable, entertaining and gives us a little tour while explaining about the Harris Hawks we’ll fly. We have Stoker, the male, and I’ve totally gone up on the name of his sister—the female’s the biggest and the dominant one.

In the warm, wonderful sunlight, JR and Colt will start it off. They don their gloves. The hawks are tethered  onto  their closed fists, and off we go.  We walk down to the wide path, Naimh untethers the hawks. And they take flight. What a glorious sight. The wide spread of wings, the grace in that soar from hand to branch as they skim the air.  The way they look high in the tree waiting for the signal to return to the glove.

  Then the guys hold out their arms, and both hawks swoop back—breathtaking—land, and get their treat. I believe it’s a bit of hamster, and try not to think too hard on that one.

Again and again as we walk, the hawks take flight and return.

Now it’s time for Kayla and me to wear the gloves. I’ve had this experience a few times now, and it never fails to thrill. Watching that beautiful bird swoop toward my extended arm, having it perch there, watching me as I watch it.

At one point, both birds land on Kayla’s arm, then Stoker hops over to mine. His sister rules.

In the woods we exchange gloves again. At one point they choose the same branch, and sister scolds brother as he perched higher on it than she did. We walk the path I’d taken that morning, with the hawks maneuvering fluidly through the trees. One lands briefly on Colt’s shoulder before hopping down to his fist.

Another exchange of gloves for the walk back, and several more flights in the woods, in the open. I’ve got Stoker now, and he flaps as we approach the school. He’s ready to sit and digest his meal.

The other team’s back, too, and I learn Griffin did indeed glove up and fly a hawk. If Mom could do it, so could he! And he’s educated Tommy along the way on all things Minecraft. Jason carried an actual camera and got some great shots. I think our gang did pretty well with our phones.

We’re introduced to the young, enormous gray owl, then  visit with Dingle—I know him from previous trips. This owl is twenty-six years old, and retired.

We see a couple of month old babies—so cute—and are allowed to gently stroke them. They’re in a room with strollers and a wheel chair—to get them used to wheels and scary things. Since they’re both resting in the wheel chair, I think the process works.

Full of our adventure, we walk back. I’ll do this again when I come back to Ireland. It’s not to be missed.

And Laura’s here, safe and sound. We have a glass of champagne in my room, catch up a bit. Dinner tonight’s in the Drawing Room so time to dress up a little bit. And I, who never nap, conk and then wake with about twenty minutes to spare to pull it all together.

Since I’m also never late, Jason comes to check on me. Five more minutes!!

We and another family have the Drawing Room to ourselves. Everyone looks so nice. Kat’s brought the honey as I’m making myself take two straight teaspoons a day—and Savanna’s outlined the process from her nana. Don’t just swallow, let it drip down the throat.

Blah!! Not a fan of honey to begin with, but I get through it. We have a piano player, and music means Griffin’s gotta dance. He’s also interested in the other family’s toddler—whom he refers to as baby—goes over to their table, and the toddler happily dances with him.

At one point, Griffin asks: What’s your name, baby?

Jason says Griffin has his pick-up line.

Then Griffin sits with me over dessert, and guides me through some games on a phone. I’m pleased I impressed him with my skills.

Then it’s bedtime.

I haven’t checked today’s forecast, but the view out my window looks promising. I think Laura and I—and anyone else interested—will walk down to Cong later for some shopping. I know JR and Colt—not sure who else—are taking the boat tour.

I don’t do boats. I’d love to, but motion sickness makes that a misery. Same with trains. Nothing stops it, and I’ve tried all the stuff. Logan’s right there with me.

 Tonight, Laura’s treating herself to A Fancy Dinner at the George V. The rest of us plan to eat less formally in Cong. There’s a rumor about live music I hope pans out.

Time to work out and get going.

Nora

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A note from Laura:

Yes, my sporty orange car and I safely navigated the roads down to Ashford.

I’m over at the Lodge (it’s still a vacation of sorts) while my husband went on to explore Dublin, then will fly to Ghent.

Still writing my own travelogue, though I’m taking my time. This was my Monday in Enniscrone.

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And a couple of Savanna’s photos of the day:

As perfectly beautiful as a day gets. Everything blue and green and bright. I decide to spend some time soaking it in. I walk, wander, come across a large group doing a hawk walk. Pause and watch awhile. Seeing those hawks swoop through the air, arm to branch, branch to arm, is just breathtaking. I continue on, choose a direction. Not wearing my boots so I’m not taking a trail into the woods, but there are so many others.

There’s a sign: Tree Felling. And I can see where they’ve taken down or are thinning out trees. We had to do that at home last fall.

Wander on. Tree-lined, lovely, quiet. Wildflowers popping up everywhere you look.

I turn again. I sort of, kind of remember this way from previous visits with wide fields on either side, hills rising to mountains, And yes, there’s a really lovely private home with a truly wonderful garden. After an internal debate, I resist taking photos. I wouldn’t like it if some stranger took pictures of my home without asking.

Make another turn, another choice and end up where I don’t remember walking in the past. The fields are behind a line of thick trees—so many personalities in the shape of the branches, the lean of the trunks. Some look like they’ve self-felled and add to the wild look of it all.

Green shadows in a green tunnel, and it’s quiet as a church. And this is my kind of church. Little spots of color reaching up through the shade to catch some light. I see a horse grazing in a field on the other side of the trees. I can’t get a good picture since he’s shifting around a bit, but I try.

When a car comes down the road, it’s a shock. They shouldn’t have been invented yet!

Wander on, and in a clearing, the view opens to cropping sheep, sky and hills.

I realize I’ve walked a fair distance and don’t actually know where this road leads. Time to double back, and at the pretty house, take another direction.

There’s some of the castle’s kitchen garden, and a couple of guys constructing an enormous greenhouse. A fine day for outdoor work. Go this way awhile, then decide that path through the woods doesn’t look too muddy. Even if it were, it’s worth it to be surrounded by trees and tiny wildflowers.

I think I’ve come out in back of the falconry school as I can hear the call of some of those birds of prey. Come out onto the wide gravel path that leads back to the castle, but detour into the walled garden—so lovely there—then beyond it and around again when I realize I’ve walked nearly two hours and it’s nearly time to meet up for our painting class.

Griffin, Colt and Jason are staying back, but the rest of us are going for it. Catherine’s arranged a shuttle to take us the short drive to our artist’s absolutely charming home. And her gardens! Stunning, expansive and just full of color and shape. I could’ve wandered through them another hour.

She’s set us up with easels on her patio, and has a still life on a table. A vase of hydrangeas, a bowl of lemons and limes, a book. A little scary! This is structure, and I tend to slap, dash, dab.

She has the cutest little dog. Remy is a Griffon and so friendly, wagging all over to greet the visitors. He’s delighted with rubs and pets and sweet talking.

But it’s time to get to work. Tess explains we’re not to worry about details yet, just general shapes, broad brush and strokes to get those shapes on canvas. Thankfully, she demonstrates on Kayla’s. Kat and Savanna, both art students, don’t really need this basic tutorial. But the rest of us do!

She gives me a hand with mine, then time to go for it. Mix colors, use those shapes to fill in.

I glance over, and Kat’s added Remy to her still life. It’s already pretty fabulous, and Savannah’s shapes are taking on dimension.

Mine looks like blobs at this point, but I push ahead.

It’s challenging, fascinating and we’re all in the sunshine. Catherine comes with a delivery of cold drinks, finger sandwiches and snacks. So we break. Everyone’s canvas is at different stages, and showing different styles (and skill levels when we add Kat and Savanna). Time to start working the details.

What have I done to my lemons? Why don’t they look, like Kat’s on my left, like lemons? Details, details, pile on more paint. It seems Logan’s having some trouble, and Tess works with him, helps him clean up lines, mix colors.

On my right, Kayla’s is bright and cheery. On my left, Kat’s is amazing with that sweet-faced, breaded Remy looking out beside colorful flowers and fruit. Savanna’s is so pretty, her flowers look like flowers. JR’s is bold and sort of abstract. Logan’s is just great—and we don’t let him forget he had help!

Time to sign our work, give it a chance to dry a bit. What a fun memory to take home! I have to admire the breath and scope of the gardens again before we get in the shuttle with our masterpieces.

Time for a drink in the bar, some unwinding before we clean up for dinner.

It’s into Cong tonight. Jason, Colt, JR and I walk it. I’ve always liked this walk down the quiet road, the trees and fields before you turn and come to a stone church, then around to the ruins of Cong Abbey before the bustle of Cong.

They’ve pushed together tables for our group of nine. Order drinks. Griffin draws one of his impossible mazes, and a rocket ship. Maybe he should paint with us next time. It’s a damn good rocket ship.

Orders up, food and conversation. Then Griffin hands his mother one of his baby teeth. It’s been loose for months, and tonight he simply and calmly pulled it out.

Much excitement from everyone else. Tooth Fairy time. Not just Tooth Fairy. The Irish Tooth Fairy! After dinner he and I play the Making Faces game. God, that tiny gap in his teeth just kills me.

Those who walked down walk back.  Good night hugs, and I see I’ve logged in over 23,000 steps. That’s a solid walking day.

Today looks bright again, and I’m hoping it holds. Most of us have the hawk walk this afternoon. And Laura’s driving down from visiting her cousins so we’ll be a group of ten for the remainder.

Time to work out and get this day started.

Nora

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