Montana! Day 7

BW and I start the day off with an hour of Tai Chi in the loft. It’s cooler today, and Kat and Jason set off for their ATV adventure. We’re about an hour behind them, in the car. It’s a beautiful ride through thick pine forests on a bumpy, windy gravel road taking us to Garnet ghost town. Steep, steep rises of land, forests deep on either side so the road’s a rough ribbon–intersected with cattle grates–winding through. I don’t think we saw another car until we came to the little parking lot above Garnet.

There’s the line of ATVs so the kids are already there. Some trucks, a couple of cars. We set off down and down the little track, come to an overlook where you can look out at the remains of a once thriving mining town. Little log cabins spread over the flat or situated on the rough hills, and the forest pushing close all resting under a big, blue sky.

Nora above Garnet
Nora above Garnet
Selfie above Garnet
Selfie above Garnet

Down, down we go, and I see BW fooling with his phone. Text from Jason. We wander a bit, head toward a cabin marked as Visitor’s Center. There they are! Dusty from the ride–a cool one, Kat tells us. Into the cabin, which is also a little gift shop, we spend some time here and LookWhatsCool don’t I find another Christmas present!

We walk up with Jason and Kat and their guide Tanner to The Newlywed Cabin. The town’s prosperous merchant built this and offered it rent free to newlyweds. They could live there until another set of newlyweds needed it. It demonstrates what I sensed here after going through. This was more than a town, it was a real community. A good place to build a life, raise a family.

The cabin is tiny, just one room with an old stove, the naked springs of an iron bed. But those just starting out had a roof over their heads, a place to call home while they built that life.

Turns out we’re to have a boxed lunch with J&K and Tanner so it’s up, up, up again to the little picnic area near the parking lot, looking out through the forest. A more than generous lunch, and we learn Tanner grew up in Eastern Montana, moved himself to the Missoula area at eighteen, and pitched a tent until he got work. He fights fires in the summer, but last year was offered a job in Maui, moved there. Discovered his view of Paradise was Montana, and came back again.

Kat and Jason headed out.
Kat and Jason headed out.

Soon they’re off on their ATVs, bandanas over faces, and BW and I head back down. It’s cool enough I’m glad for the vest I wore under my light jacket. Zip that baby up and all’s well.

One of my favorite buildings is the General Store. Bigger than the home cabins, a place where once you’d have gone for most everything. Dry goods, canned goods, meat, shoes, clothes, fabric. You’d have your gold weighed there. There are bits of the old stores on display on shelves and tables. I love the table of old shoes!

Shoe shopping by NR
Shoe shopping by NR

There’s the remains of a once grand three-story hotel, with its fancy wallpaper in tattered ribbons ragged on the walls. For a couple bucks a night, you could have a private room, four for the one large room, and for fifty cents, a miner could claim floor space in the attic for his bedroll. Musical entertainment a couple nights a week included!  It boasts a kitchen with the remains of old cans, old pots and roasters. I expect dinner at the hotel was quite a treat.

In its heyday Garnet had 13 bars. I like to imagine the music tinkling out of doorways at night, from the saloons and the hotel. Cool, starry nights with the scent of wood fires and pine trees and that tinkling piano. And the absolute hush in the winter when the snow rose higher than a man.

We really enjoy our visit here, to the blacksmith, to one and two room cabins, to a life so removed from our own, and that real sense of community. I like how well this slice of life has been preserved, tended and valued.

So it’s up, up, up again to the car, and the drive. Along the way we stop as cattle are grazing on the side of the road. I always wonder why animals insist on grazing on the side of the road. And why a couple of them don’t just decide to keep going. Hey, let’s go to town, whattaya say?

Road cows by NR
Road cows by NR

We leave the cows behind, stop at an overlook where you can see the whole valley below, the higher mountains and wilderness in the distance.

BW at the overlook by NR
BW at the overlook by NR

It’s its own world, and magnificent. And I wonder how anyone found the courage and grit to cross it on foot, on horse, in a wagon.

Before long we’re home again for a little put the feet up time and have an adult beverage break. Jason’s already in the shower and a very dusty Kat is out on the back porch. They had a terrific time, and Kat’s enamored enough of the ATV riding she says she’ll seek out similar adventures in the future.

Tonight’s dinner is at a camp by the river.

There’s a beach formed by rocks rounded by the water, and the water’s gorgeous. A little grassy island close enough to wade to if the whim strikes. The tumble of river over rocks adds music. I’m sure it’s wonderful to wake each morning and look out over the water and trees.

Blackfoot Beach by NR
Blackfoot Beach by NR
Wildflowers on beach by NR
Wildflowers on beach by NR

Kat washes off tumbled stones in the river, reveals color like jewels.

The food’s terrific, the view beyond beautiful, and as always the service friendly and personable. While we eat I spot a couple of deer picking their way across the rocky beach toward the island. I have to go down for a closer look. They watch me watch them, and though I try, I can’t get a good picture of them in that high grass. Step back, glance down.

Oh hello, little snake. And goodbye!

Back up for an amazing fruit cobbler with huckleberry ice cream and fresh whipped cream. Oh yeah.

Wednesday sunset
Wednesday sunset

We’re all tired, in that really good way, so again it’s early to bed for me.

Supposed to be really cool today, so we’ll see how outdoor yoga goes this morning. This afternoon we have our first trail ride, and I have enough layers it should be comfortable even if it only reaches the 62 degrees forecasted.

Right now the light’s soft over the hills, the sky a little gloomy with some hopeful patches.

We’ve had a most excellent week in Montana.

Nora

22 thoughts on “Montana! Day 7”

  1. What a wonderful vacation…thanks for sharing. That sunset was just amazing!

  2. Reading the story of your vacation makes me yearn for another visit to this beautiful state. My brother lives in Phillipsburg, about a mile south of Missoula. It is a very quaint, picturesque town with mountains all around. The town features sapphire mine, a wonderful bed & breakfast (The Broadway Hotel), and the fantastic candy shop (The Sweet Palace) which has homemade fudge and any other candy imaginable. There is also a ghost town between the town and my brother’s home – not sure if it is the one you visited. When we were there, guides were not available but that was a few years ago. Glad you are enjoying Montana as much as I do every time we visit.

    1. Update – Phillipsburg is an hour from Missoula, not a mile- OOPS

  3. I have a friend who claims to discover the secret of teleportation every time she finds herself in close company with a snake. Claims it’s better than doing cardio. Thank you for sharing.

  4. Love these posts. Thanks so much for sharing your vacation and the pictures. Montana Sky has always been one of my favourite reads as I love western settings & anything to do with horses. Maybe this will inspire another one sometime.

  5. Love these posts. Really like your hats and would have hurt myself getting away from that snake.

  6. I have loved reading about my hone state through the eyes of my favorite author. Makes me miss my home town, Anaconda, even more. I hope there’s another book that’s based in Montana again.

    1. Your wonderful words paints us into the picture of your vacation. Love it! Thank you

  7. Thank you, thank you for sharing your daily adventures on your vacation with us! I’ve never been to Montana but now I have a good sense of what one could expect in some areas of the state. Can’t blame you in the least for heading in the opposite direction of the snake! Yikes!!!

  8. Love reading about Montana Nora!! Your trip sounds amazing and is making me want to visit there!! So glad you are getting to have a restful and fun time.

  9. Oh my, the photo of Wednesday sunset doesn’t even look real. It’s like a beautiful painting out of time. Amazing.

  10. Any ghosts in the ghost town? Sounds like a wonderful day!

  11. Thanks for this. Love Missoula and love Garnet. Used to go there when I needed quiet. Can’t do that anymore since I live in Maryland but this brought me back. I know those buildings that you are describing…..

  12. I love that you took a picture of the cows. Glad you’re enjoying Montana so much–and that the smoke cleared enough that you can see further than your hand in front of your face. I’ll be driving through Missoula tomorrow, I’ll wave in your general direction.

  13. Sounds like a wonderful vacation. I love the sunset picture, it reminds me of the cover of my copy of Montana Sky.

  14. Thank you for the ride through my home state. I grew up in the eastern part of the state but am now homesick for everything. My mother use to say those sunsets were God’s sky-blue-pink. Beautiful picture!

  15. We were at Garnet ghost town on our vacation this past July! It is so fun to hear your description of a place I’ve been – and now I know where the folks we saw on ATVs came from! We are lucky enough to have friends in the area that were most excellent hosts and tour guides. Enjoy the rest of your vacation!

  16. montana was my 49th state. Next-to-last on my bucket list of visiting all 50, Montana fulfilled all my expectations as I spent almost the same week as Nora, in the southwest part of this beautiful state.

  17. I don’t want your vacation to end- I’m enjoying the travel-log so much. No, wait- I changed my mind. That would mean that my favorite prolific author would cut down on the amount of In Death books she writes- & I wouldn’t get my Eve/Roarke fix often enough. O.K.- please go back to work soon- your adoring public awaits. 11 more days to go till Devoted is out.
    Is it just my laptop, or are there red ears on the cows there?

  18. Love the phrase the tumble of river over rocks!

    Thank you bringing us along in the vaca!!!

  19. This is a wonderful blog, I feel as if I am on vacation along with you. I love the pictures of the sunsets. Thank you for sharing

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